Ask your questions in the comments section below.

BTW…All my previous questions were lost and I am trying to recover them. Please check back later or re-ask any question you need answers to.

Thank you for your patience…

E


7 Responses to “ the F.A.Q.’s ”

Comments:

  1. Gregory says:

    Elio,
    I picked up some wire bent file sorters from Staples the other day to use as drying racks for my paintings - they work great and don’t cost much!

    Question, after five months of going at it I have a pretty sizable stack of paintings. I have them just leaned against a wall, one in front of the other - that is better than stacked flat, right? How do you store your paintings that are dry but that have not gone to a gallery for sale?

    Thanks! G

    Gregory,

    Ahhh…the question that plagues all us painters.

    First even leaning them against one another will damage the paintings.

    • The thicker strokes will get crushed as the weight begins to build up.
    • The back side of the board is usually coarse and will scratch the larger strokes and kill the painting.
    • The paintings will also stick together and when pulled apart will damage the paintings.

    There is no easy solution I can offer you.

    What I do. I had a box built that allows me to slide the paintings in horizontally. The box is about the size of a closet and holds around 3000 small sketches of various sizes. Basically picture any board holder and lay it down so the painting slide in horizontally. Then enlarge by 1000%….:)

    As far as large work goes…just make sure it sells quickly.

  2. Gregory says:

    Elio,

    Okay I am going to get more selective in what I scrape down and what I keep after reading your answer to my previous question!

    1) I mentioned painting over past paintings that weren’t so successful the other day. You said I can just take an orbital sander and sand the painting down since I am painting on boards. But you also mentioned that for practice to sand down and repaint the painting again. On doing this, is the point to sand the board down just to knock the high spots of paint down? In this way I can still read the painting I am going over?

    Yes…sanding with an 80 Grit paper will leave a ghost of the composition from the previous painting.

    Let me also mention you need to wait at least 6 months to sand because the oil paint dries via oxidation and under the big strokes the paint will still be wet and gum-up. Longer if you paint as thick as me.

    Also, depending on how thick you paint some texture will be left unless you plan on sanding for a very long time. Painting over the texture is acceptable and many artist do it. Even Monet did it.

    I think it makes the painting look over-worked. It is a personal choice and collectors sometimes like the texture.

    3) Also, is it okay to paint over a dry painting, I don’t use any medium, but I thought that you would need to first coat the painting with retouch varnish first?

    Again it is acceptable and many artists do it. My approach is wet-into-wet and don’t touch the painting after it is dry. I create texture with wet paint.

    If you are painting over a sanded board then the retouch varnish or linseed oil will help. If the board isn’t sanded then lightly coat it with linseed oil so your washes flow over the old painting. You wont have any trouble getting the strokes to stick to dry oil paint.

  3. Tom says:

    I have signed up for information regarding your local workshops but I haven’t heard back from you.

    Tom,
    Sending emails is no true science. The truth is I don’t have any simple answers. I take all the necessary precautions to avoid having my emails marked as spam.

    First make sure info@eliocamacho.com is in your “safe reciepient” list. Second lower you spam filter. If you have it marked as high lower the filtering to medium. AOL, Yahoo, and Hotmail are the biggest culprits. These email providers filter some spam without it even ending up IN your spam box.

    Lastly, you can always call me for workshop info at 510-420-6930. The ringer is never on so you must leave a message and I will respond promptly.

  4. Jason Bear says:

    Do you accept commissions?

    Yes, contact me via the contact page on this site with the details.

    All commissions require a 25% Non-refundable deposit to start with the remaining amount due upon completion.

  5. Loreta says:

    I was interested in your East Bay plein air classes, but I go out of town at least one weekend a month…

    No problem, if you decide to take the full month any missed classes carry over to the following month. So if you missed only one class each month you would always have one class carrying over.

    Also, I wanted to see what kind of areas you painted

    We paint at Marinas, East bay Parks, Private Vineyards and more. Each week I email information regarding the upcoming week.

    I take a lot of pride in the locations I choose and they all have bathrooms near by and are safe.

    When you decide you want to join simply email me and I will send you a map to the location.

    Personally, I might like to take one class a month. I understand that that may not work for you.

    There are a few benefits to being a full time student.
    • Your guaranteed a spot next month. Basically continuing students get right of first refusal on the upcoming month.
    • 15% discount on the next month.

    In saying that I have no problem with students joining on a class by class bases as long as there is room.

  6. Gregory says:

    Elio,
    Have you ever had a “jinxed” board/canvas that for some reason just won’t allow you to do anything good on it! What is the most times you’ve painted on the same board after wiping away the prior attempt? … just simple questions :) I am tempted to let the “bad” painting dry just to get rid of the board!

    G

    Haha! Yes there seems to be canvases that are often doomed. The 36×36 recently posted was one of those boards. I think I painted at least 7 completed paintings on that board and over 20 starts before I found one I loved.


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